Russian K2 Winter Expedition 2011-12

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Considered to be the toughest team in the mountaineering world, the Russian Mountaineering Team led by Mr. Viktor Kozlov, a veteran mountaineer and explorer, is in Pakistan to attempt K2 during winter. The team comprises 16 experienced mountaineers who have commendable mountaineering achievements to their credit, collectively as well as individually, with each member having climbed two to three mountains rising above 8000 m through new and most difficult routes.

            They first attempt Lhotse and climbed it through Middle route, Everest North Wall, Jannu North Face and K2 West Face among normal route. Later in 2004 the team climbed Mt Everest, through North Wall and Januu North Face successfully. In 2009 the team made a long struggle on the most difficult side of K-2 -  the West Wall, which remains devoid of sun for most of the day. After spending more than three months on the west side and few attempts they successfully climbed this unclimbed route.

Under leadership of Mr. Viktar Kozlov the team is attempting for yet another climbing feat. They plan to climb K-2 during winter through Cesen Route up-to 7560m make a new route from this point to the K-2 summit (8,611 m). They estimate few good weather windows around end January and first week of February. Their weather forecast associate in Austria will be providing the necessary weather to make the summit bid. 

Team arrive in Islamabad on 10 December, 2011 and attended briefing session and press conference at Alpine Club of Pakistan on 12 December. Secretary ACP Mr. Abu Zafar briefed the expedition. The team which left Islamabad on 13 December for Skardu where they are plan to spend some days for acclimatization. They also plan to take five or six helicopters flights to haul all their man and material to the K-2 Base Camp. The Expedition will be supported by 4 high altitude porters. The Team plans to climb without Oxygen and fix approximately 2 km of fixed rope. 

The team members are:-  

1. Viktor Kozlov - Team leader
2. Alexey Bolotov
3. Vladimir Belous
4. Nikolai Totmianin
5. Valery Shamalo
6. Vitaliy Gorelik
7. Ilias Tukhvatullin
8. Andrey Mariev
9. Vadim Popovich
10. Evgeny Vinogradskiy (four 8,000m to his credit)
11. Nikolay Chernyy (73 years and the main coach and of Everest summiteer - 1982)
12. Sergey Bychkovskiy
13. Igor Borisenko
14. Vladimir Kuptsov
15. Sergey Gaydukov
16. Yury Dimchuk