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Karakoram

Karakoram means black in Turkish. This splendid and magnificent collection of dark brown and black metamorphic rocks is the most unique mountain range in the world. It has the largest concentration of lofty pinnacles and mountains and stretches for 400 kms by 250 kms. It is bounded by Shyok River in the East and Karamber, Ishkuman and Gilgit River in the West. In the North East it is bounded by Shaksgam River and in the South West by Shyok and the Indus rivers. Karakoram is specially characterised by its fissured rocks and steep slopes presenting great challenge to climbers and adventure seekers. Four peaks above eight thousand metre ie, K-2, Gasherbrum I and II and Broad Peak are situated in Karakoram in a radius of just twenty kms around famous glacial junction Concordia. The sub regions of the Karakoram are Boltoro Muztagh, Hispar, Siachen, Batura, Rakaposhi/Bagrot, Rimo, Haramosh. The snow line in this range varies between 4200 to 4500 metres during the summers. The temperatures in the area are extreme and there is large difference between lowest and highest temperatures during a day. Monsoons do not penetrate this range, thus most suitable climbing season in Karakoram is from May till end September each year. Climbing during winters is, however possible. Besides high mountains Karakoram is inhabited by the largest glaciers outside the polar regions The prominent are:-

S No. Name of the Glacier Area (Sq Kms) Length (Kms)
1 Siachen 1180 75
2 Biafo 625 68
3 Boltoro 755 62
4 Batura 290 58
5 Hispar 620 53
6 Rimo 510 45
7 Chogo Lungma 330 47
8 Panmah 400 44
9 Khurdopin 280 41
10 Sarpo Laggo 230 33

For centuries trekkers and travellers have been lured by the mighty Karakoram, Himalayas and Hindukush. The Chinese were the earliest known travellers who recorded their impressions of dark mountains, rope bridges and mighty glaciers. Fattien crossed the Karakoram through Mintika Pass (4710 m) in 390 AD on his way from Sinkiang to the Subcontinent. Hinen Tsang trekked his way through the Karakoram to this region in 603 AD. Marco Polo’s journey from Venice to the Court of Kublai Khan in 13th century left its imprints here including the Marco Polo sheep. Ibne Batuta of Tangiers traveled here in 14th century. Later many European notables visited Karakoram for adventure, exploration, scientific studies and mountain climbing in the late nineteenth and early twentieth century. In the early nineteenth century explorers like Mr J Henderson and Mr G T Vinge traveled to Skardu in 1834 and 1836. Serious mountaineering in Karakoram began in 1892 when Martin Conway, while carrying out survey of the upper Indus attempted to climb peaks in the area including Rakaposhi. He returned to the region in 1902 when he tried to climb K-2. In 1909 the great Duke of Abruzzi from Italy brought his large expedition to climb and survey the upper Boltoro region.. Thus began a series of exploratory and mountaineering expeditions to the Karakoram. Till 1947 a number of British, Italian and American expeditions had visited the region. After independence, in 1947 number of the expeditions to the area increased. In 1953 an American expedition made an unsuccessful attempt on K-2 while in 1954 an Italian expedition led by Prof Ardito Desio successfully climbed K-2. Mr Lino Lecedelli and Archille Compagnoni became the first men to reach K-2 summit climbing through the Abruzzi ridge. Since opening up of the area for general mountaineering and trekking a large number of expeditions visit Karakoram each year. A Japanese expedition successfully put the first Japanese climber alongwith first Pakistani Mr Ashraf Aman on the K-2 summit in 1977. K-2 has since been climbed by a large number of climbers from all its sides and slopes. Mr Nazir Sabir climbed K-2 from the most difficult West ridge in the company of another Japanese expedition in 1981. Mr Rajab Shah and Mr Meherban Shah became the first Pakistani pair to stand on summit of K-2 in 1995. Till date the K-2 has been climbed by about sixty climbers including internationally renowned and eminent mountaineers from the world over. It has been Other 8000 metre peaks of Karakoram have since been climbed by a large number of foreign and Pakistani mountaineers. On the average the Karakorams receive up to 60 expeditions each year. Besides the mountaineering expeditions a large number of trekkers visit the area whose number is increasing each year. At present all peaks beyond 7000 m have been climbed, but there are number of other peaks which still lay unclimbed waiting for those who dare to challenge them.

There are large number of interesting and difficult high altitude treks. Some of the popular treks are Askole - Boltoro glacier - Concordia - K-2 Base Camp ( 23 days round trip from Islamabad), Askole - Biafo-Hispar glacier - Nagar trek ( 23 days round trip from Islamabad), Hushe- Ghondoghoro La- Concordia - K-2 Base Camp ( 25 days round trip from Islamabad), Batura glacier trek ( 15 days round trip from Islamabad), Chapursan Valley trek ( 3 weeks round trip from Islamabad), and Shimshal Valley trek ( 3 weeks round trip from Islamabad).

 
Secretary Alpine Club of Pakistan
509 Kashmir Road, R.A. Bazar
Rawalpindi, Pakistan
+92 51 927 1321