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Pakistan Gasherbrum - II 2006 |
| General |
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Gasherbrum meaning the shining mountain is a peculiar
mountain chain in Eastern Karakoram bordering Siachen and creating a kind
of sanctuary in a circle from Gasherbrum-I (8068 m) also known as Hidden
Peak, to Gasherbrum-VI (7004 m). The Gasherbrum II, (8035 metres/26,361ft)
fourth highest mountain of  Karakoram
Range and fifth highest of Pakistan, is situated on the upper Baltoro
glacier bordering China 180 kms Northeast of Skardu in the Northern Areas.
The first ascent on this peak was made on 8th July 1956 by an Austrian
team led by Fritz Moravec along with members Josef Larch and Hans Willenpart.
The Golden Jubilee of First Ascent of Gasherbrum II is being celebrated
in 2006 and up to 23 expeditions comprising over 250 mountaineers from
all over the world are attempting to climb this mountain on this occasion.
The eminent and reputed Pakistani mountaineers Mr Nazir Sabir and Col
Sher Khan (Retd) while climbing with the renowned mountaineer Reinhold
Messner, became first Pakistanis to reach the summit of this peak in 1982.
Pakistan Expedition to Celebrate Golden Jubilee of the First
Ascent of Gasherbrum II
To mark the occasion of the Golden Jubilee of the first ascent
of this mountain, Alpine Club of Pakistan with the support of Pakistan
Army has launched Pakistan Gasherbrum II Golden Jubilee Expedition –
2006. This expedition will provide an opportunity to enhance experience
of the trained young Pakistani climbers, besides enhancing Pakistan’s
stature and image in the mountaineering world.
Location of the Mountain
Route to the Mountain Islamabad – Hassan Abdal –
Thakot – Chilas – Jaglot Farm – Skardu Road –
Skardu – Shigar Valley – Askole (trek begins) – Paiyu
– Concordia – Gasherbrum II Base Camp. Route map is as under:- |
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| Expedition’s Team: Expedition comprises of nine
members (five from Pakistan Army and four from ACP). Introduction of the
expedition leader and members is as under:- |
 Leader:
Lt Col Amjad Wali, Commandant Army High Altitude School, Rattu, Northern
Areas
Gilgit, NA
Age: 45 yrs
Climbing Experience:
•
Pak-French Expedition – Gasherbrum-I 1990 (Member)
•
Multinational Army Expedition – Chogolisa 1993 (Member)
• Multinational Army Expedition – Broad Peak 1994 (Member)
• Japanese Expedition – Gasherbrum I & II 1997 (LO)
• Army Winter Deosai Cross Country Ski Expedition |
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 Dy
Leader: Major Dr Muhammad Babar Khan, Islamabad
Age: 40 Yrs
Climbing Experience
•
Mahnoor Peak – 1991
• Khesheg-Khunjrab Peak 1992
• Multinational Army Expedition – Chogolisa 1993
•
Multinational Army Expedition – Broad Peak 1994 |
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 Member:
Capt Asif Wali, Gilgit, NA
Age: 32 yrs
Climbing Experience:
Various trekking & skiing expeditions |
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 Member:
N/Sub Sher Dullah Khan, Ghizer, NA
Age: 36 yrs
Climbing Experience:
•
Climbed Passu Peak (7284 m) with Alpine Club of Pakistan Passu Expedition
- 1996
• China Pak K-2 Expedition - 2002 (Member) |
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 Member:
Hav Haji Akbar, Punial, Ghizer, NA
Age: 29 yrs
Climbing Experience:
Instructor Rock & Ice-wall climbing AHAS Rattu |
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 Member:
Muhammad Taqi, Sadpara, Skardu, NA
Age: 35 yrs
Climbing Experience:
•
Reached an altitude of 8060 m on K-2 in 2001
• Climbed Gasherbrum
II while in the company of Spanish Expedition – 2002 (Summit)
• Reached an altitude of 7600 m on Broad Peak (8047 m) while
accompanying International Expedition in 2005 |
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 Member:
Hussain Parwana, Hushe, Ganche, NA
Age: 35 yrs
Climbing Experience:
•
Gasherbrum II - Climbed upto 7600 m - Japanese Expedition - 1999
• K-2 - Climbed upto 7600 m - Korean Expedition 2001
•
Gasherbrum II – reached summit Spanish Expedition 2003
• Gasherbrum I - Japanese Expedition –2005 |
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 Member:
Ali Muhammad, Soltoro, Ganche, NA
Age: 31 yrs
Climbing Experience:
•
Spanish K2 Expedition - 1997
• Danish Gasherbrum I &
VI Expedition – 1998
• French Gasherbrum II Expedition
– 1999
• US K2 Expedition – 2000
•
Alaskan Broad Peak Expedition – 2001
• US Gasherbrum
I Expedition – 2005 |
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 Member:
Mumtaz Ahmad, Muzzaffarabad, AJK
Age: 32 yrs
Climbing Experience:
•
Rock climbing
• Lead and attempted to climb 6400 m high
Siranwali Peak in 2003 as part of the ACP-AJK Expedition. |
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 Reserve
Member: Hav Amir Hamza, Gilgit, NA
Age: 34 yrs
Climbing Experience:
•
Instructor AHAS Rattu for 3 years
• Khesheg-Khunjrab Peak
2005 |
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 Chief
Coordinator: Lt Col (Retd) Manzoor Hussain, Executive Vice
President ACP and former Secretary ACP (1992-2004)
Age: 59 yrs
Climbing Experience:
•
Trekking around K-2 – 1974
• American K-2 Expedition
– 1975
• Organized and lead ACP Services Paiyu Expedition
– 1976. Reached the 6670 m high summit with Nazir Sabir.
• Organized and co-lead Pak Japanese successful Passu Expedition
– 1978
• Instructor ACP Mountaineering Institute,
Nilt, NA
• Organized and lead ACP successful Passu Expedition
– 1996
• Organized ACP Mt Everest Expedition –
1997
• Organized various other big and small ACP expeditions |
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| Expedition Coordinators: Lt Col (Retd) Manzoor Hussain
Executive Vice President ACP is the Chief Coordinator of the Expedition
whereas Col (Retd) Sher Khan, Vice President ACP who has the single honour
of climbing Gasherbrum II thrice is the technical coordinator. Brig Shahjehan
Khan, Director Military Training, Pakistan Army will be the expedition coordinator
on behalf of Pakistan Army. |
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| Expedition Programme: The programme of the expedition
is as under:- |
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Date |
Activity |
| 1. |
25 Jun 06 |
Assembly at Rawalpindi |
| 2. |
26 – 03 Jul 06 |
Purchases and Expedition Preparation |
| 3. |
04 Jul 06 |
Departure Rawalpindi and Arrive at Jaglot |
| 4. |
05 Jul 06 |
Visit to AHAS, Rattu |
| 5. |
07 Jul 06 |
Depart Jaglot and Arrive Skardu |
| 6. |
08 Jul 06 |
Coordination at Skardu |
| 7. |
09 Jul 06 |
Depart Skardu for Askole |
| 8. |
10 Jul 06 |
Depart Askole for trek to Gaherbum II BC |
| 9. |
20 Jul 06 |
Arrival at Gasherbum II BC |
| 10. |
20 Jul– 31 Aug 06 |
Acclimatization, setting up higher camps and climbing Gasherbrum
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| 11. |
01 Sep 06 |
Depart BC and Arrive Skardu (tentative and subject to Helicopter
availability) |
| 12. |
05 Sep 06 |
Depart Skardu for Rawalpindi (tentative) |
| 13. |
06 Sep 06 |
Arrival Rawalpindi (tentative) |
| 14. |
07-11 Sep 06 |
Press Conferences and dispersal etc(tentative) |
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| Climbing Plan: The climbing will be done in conventional
style. The Base Camp will be established at the traditional base of the
South Gasherbrum glacier. Maximum of four high altitude camps in addition
to one Advance Base Camps shall be established before attempting G-II summit.
The expected heights of various camps are as under:- |
- Base Camp (BC) - 5,200 m
- Advance BC - 5,400 m
- Camp I - 6,000 m
- Camp II - 6,500 m
- Camp II - 7,200 m
- Camp IV - 7,700 m
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Publicity: The publicity is being handled
by Inter Services Public Relations Directorate.
Progress:
Progress of the Expedition is enclosed separately. |
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