- Mt Gasherbrum II (8035 m) situated on the upper Baltoro glacier, 180
kms Northeast of Skardu, Northern Areas is the fifth highest of Pakistan
and thirteen highest peak of the world. It’s first ascent was
made on 8th July 1956 by an Austrian team led by Fritz Moravec. To commemorate
the golden jubilee of the first ascent on this peak, over 21 mountaineering
expeditions comprising over 100 mountaineers from the world over are
visiting Pakistan this year to climb the Peak.
- To commemorate this auspicious occasion and highlight Pakistan’s
participation in this important event at the international level, Alpine
Club of Pakistan, the national mountaineering federation, with the support
of Pakistan Army, is launching Pakistan Gasherbrum II Golden Jubilee
Expedition – 2006. The expedition aims at planting Pakistan’s
flag on Gasherbrum II summit along with flags from various other mountaineering
countries.
- The expedition is being lead by Lt Col Amjad Wali, Commandant Army
High School, Rattu and comprises total of eight members; four each from
Pakistan Army and Alpine Club. He is 45 years old and has been teaching
climbing at the High Altitude School for past many years. Lt Col Wali
has been on number of Army expeditions to various high peaks including
Gasherbrum I, Broad Peak and Chogolisa. The Army members include Maj
Dr Muhammad Babar Khan, Maj Mujeebur Rehman (Reserve), Capt Asif Ali,
N/Sub Sher Dullah Khan and L/Nk Haji Akbar. The Alpine Club members
include Muhamamd Taqi, Hussain Parwana (both Gasherbrum II sumitteers),
Ali Muhammad and Mumtaz Ahmed. All members posses good climbing experience
and have climbed various peaks rising above 7000 m.
- The expedition departed Rawalpindi for Skardu on 03 July 06. On 8
July the expedition will depart Skradu and take 7 hrs jeep journey to
the last village Askole in the Shigar valley. From Askole the expedition
will commence their 4 days trek to Paiyu at the snouts of Baltoro glacier.
It will take them another 7 days trek on the 62 km long Baltoro glacier
to reach their 5200 m high Base Camp by 20 July. The expedition expects
to stay at the Base camp to acclimatize and climb on the higher camps
for over five weeks. It expects to establish an Advance Base camp (5,400m)
four high altitude camps ie, Camp I (6,000m), Camp II (6,500m), Camp
III (7,200m) and Camp IV (7,700m) before attempting the summit around
third week of Aug. This year due to less snow fall and prolonged hot
weather the expedition expects to face extensive crevasses between the
Base Camp and Camp I.
- The expedition expects to return to Skardu by first week of September
2006. The Alpine Club of Pakistan and Military Training Directorate
at General Headquarters shall be jointly monitoring the expedition’s
progress.
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