Alpine Club

Pakistan is a land of rich, varied and unique landscape. While the world’s highest mountain ranges dominate its North, series of low mountain ranges of Suleman, Pub, Kirthar and Mekran runs from North to Southwest and to South in a bone like manner. These low ranges dominate the plains and deserts to the East and warm and captivating beaches of the Arabian Sea in the South. It is, however, Northern Areas of Pakistan which is endowed with most unique geographical feature in the world. It is here that the three great, lofty and spectacular mountain ranges of the world, Karakorams, Hindukush and Himalayas meet. In an area of about 500 kms in width and 350 kms in depth is found the most dense collection of some of the highest and precipitous peaks in the world, boasting more than 700 peaks higher than 6000 meters. These include five out of the total fourteen above eight thousand metre high peaks on earth, namely the second highest rock pyramid - the K-2 (8611 m), the killer Nanga Parbat (8125), the Hidden Peak, Gasherbrum I (8068 m), the Broad Peak (8047) and the Gasherbrum II (8035 m). This enormous mountain wealth makes Pakistan an important mountain country in the world, a paradise for mountaineers, adventure seekers and nature lovers, the world over. The compelling charm of these high, challenging endless sea of rugged rock and ice pinnacles lure large number of climbers, adventure seekers, trekkers and nature lovers from across the five continents to the Northern Areas and Chitral, each year.

Karakoram has the highest concentration of high mountains in the world and possess the longest glaciers outside the polar regions. Besides, these ranges house enchanting and luring valleys like Hunza, Shigar, Khaplu, Ishkuman, Naltar, Gilgit, Skardu, Chitral, Kahgan, Swat and Kashmir and splendid passes like Shandur and Burzil. The Deosai plains in Western Himalayas lay at about 4500 metres, filled with flowers during summers, is one of highest plains in the world. There are numerous glacial lakes which are famous for their scenic value, blue waters and trout fishing. Prominent among these are Phandar, Kachura, Sadpara, Lulusar and Saiful Muluk. The main population centres are along river valleys. The main ethnic groups populated in the Northern Areas are Baltis, Wakhis, Khawar, Hunzukut, Kohistani, Shena and Yashkun. These ranges have the most rare species of flora and fauna. The wildlife includes the Snow Leopard, Brown Bear, Morcopolo sheep, Ibex and Urial etc. The vegetation in the higher ranges in the North is less due to high altitude and less precipitation, however in the South there is heavy precipitation and vegetation. The gateway to these great mountain ranges is Islamabad from where air and road links are available for Gilgit, Skardu, Chitra and Swat. Kaghan valley is connected through road link only. The range wise distribution of the peaks situated in the high mountain ranges are:-

S #	Height	Karakoram	Hindukush	Himalayas	Total
1	More than 8000 m	4	-	1	5
2	7501 - 7999 m	29	2	2	33
3	7001 - 7500 m	102	32	1	135
4	6501 - 7000 m	143	40	4	187
5	6001 - 6500 m	220	126	5	351
	Total	498	200	13	711

Access to the Area and Facilitation of the Adventure Tourists

The Northern Areas prior to Pakistan’s independence were accessed from Srinagar in Kashmir Valley. The earlier explorers took several days journey to reach Srinagar from the Indian seaport of Bombay, from where it would take them a minimum of 40 days to reach the upper portions of Boltoro glacier and other areas. The time required to access the area was considerably reduced with the induction of air service after Pakistan’s independence. The accessibility was improved as first an airport was established at Skardu and later a jeepable link with Rawalpindi was developed through Chilas and Kaghan Valley in the mid fifties. The completion of great Karakoram Highway which stretches for about 840 Kms from Hassanabdal to Khunjerab Pass, with the help and cooperation of the brotherly country of Peoples Republic of China provided an all weather truckable metalled link between Islamabad and Gilgit in 1978. The truck-able link between Gilgit and Skardu was later completed in 1982. A jeepable track from Skardu to Shigar has further been extended to Askole reducing trek to K-2. Now it takes one day’s jeep ride from Skardu to Askole- the last village and further 9 days up to the K-2 Base Camp. Islamabad serves as the route to the Northern Areas whereas Peshawar serves as the base for Chitral. Islamabad, besides Karkoram Highway is now linked with daily Boeing flights with Skardu and Fokker flights with Gilgit. However these flights are subject to clear weather. It takes one day bus/coaster/jeep ride between Islamabad and Gilgit whereas it may take up to two days road journey from Islamabad to Skardu. With the provision of this and other communication links the access from Islamabad to the Northern Area and Chitral has improved manifold, cutting down travel and trekking time and uncertainty due to non flying weather.
Since opening up of the area to the general mountaineering and trekking in 1974 there has been a gradual increase in the number of tour operators which provide all types of services to the visitors ranging from handling of customs, the paperwork required by the Ministry of Tourism, provision of all administrative support to the visitors in way of providing transport, hotelling, guides/porter services, the trekking equipment, food, and host of other facilities at nominal costs. The Information Centres of the Pakistan Tourism Development Corporation both at home and abroad displays the list of the reputed tour operators who are ready to facilitate the visitors to the area.
The Mountain ranges of the Northern Areas of Pakistan present a vast array and wealth of spectacular and incomparable lofty mountains, enchanting valleys, long glaciers, crystal blue water lakes and wild life provide immense adventure to the visitors who flock Pakistan in summers in large numbers. These mountains have abound natural wealth which can only be appreciated during a visit to these areas.

Karakoram

Karakoram means black in Turkish. This splendid and magnificent collection of dark brown and black metamorphic rocks is the most unique mountain range in the world. It has the largest concentration of lofty pinnacles and mountains and stretches for 400 kms by 250 kms. It is bounded by Shyok River in the East and Karamber, Ishkuman and Gilgit River in the West. In the North East it is bounded by Shaksgam River and in the South West by Shyok and the Indus rivers. Karakoram is specially characterised by its fissured rocks and steep slopes presenting great challenge to climbers and adventure seekers. Four peaks above eight thousand metre ie, K-2, Gasherbrum I and II and Broad Peak are situated in Karakoram in a radius of just twenty kms around famous glacial junction Concordia. The sub regions of the Karakoram are Boltoro Muztagh, Hispar, Siachen, Batura, Rakaposhi/Bagrot, Rimo, Haramosh. The snow line in this range varies between 4200 to 4500 metres during the summers. The temperatures in the area are extreme and there is large difference between lowest and highest temperatures during a day. Monsoons do not penetrate this range, thus most suitable climbing season in Karakoram is from May till end September each year. Climbing during winters is, however possible. Besides high mountains Karakoram is inhabited by the largest glaciers outside the polar regions The prominent are:-

S No.	Name of the Glacier	Area (Sq Kms)	Length (Kms)
1	Siachen	1180	75
2	Biafo	625	68
3	Boltoro	755	62
4	Batura	290	58
5	Hispar	620	53
6	Rimo	510	45
7	Chogo Lungma	330	47
8	Panmah	400	44
9	Khurdopin	280	41
10	Sarpo Laggo	230	33

For centuries trekkers and travellers have been lured by the mighty Karakoram, Himalayas and Hindukush. The Chinese were the earliest known travellers who recorded their impressions of dark mountains, rope bridges and mighty glaciers. Fattien crossed the Karakoram through Mintika Pass (4710 m) in 390 AD on his way from Sinkiang to the Subcontinent. Hinen Tsang trekked his way through the Karakoram to this region in 603 AD. Marco Polo’s journey from Venice to the Court of Kublai Khan in 13th century left its imprints here including the Marco Polo sheep. Ibne Batuta of Tangiers traveled here in 14th century. Later many European notables visited Karakoram for adventure, exploration, scientific studies and mountain climbing in the late nineteenth and early twentieth century. In the early nineteenth century explorers like Mr J Henderson and Mr G T Vinge traveled to Skardu in 1834 and 1836. Serious mountaineering in Karakoram began in 1892 when Martin Conway, while carrying out survey of the upper Indus attempted to climb peaks in the area including Rakaposhi. He returned to the region in 1902 when he tried to climb K-2. In 1909 the great Duke of Abruzzi from Italy brought his large expedition to climb and survey the upper Boltoro region.. Thus began a series of exploratory and mountaineering expeditions to the Karakoram. Till 1947 a number of British, Italian and American expeditions had visited the region. After independence, in 1947 number of the expeditions to the area increased. In 1953 an American expedition made an unsuccessful attempt on K-2 while in 1954 an Italian expedition led by Prof Ardito Desio successfully climbed K-2. Mr Lino Lecedelli and Archille Compagnoni became the first men to reach K-2 summit climbing through the Abruzzi ridge. Since opening up of the area for general mountaineering and trekking a large number of expeditions visit Karakoram each year. A Japanese expedition successfully put the first Japanese climber alongwith first Pakistani Mr Ashraf Aman on the K-2 summit in 1977. K-2 has since been climbed by a large number of climbers from all its sides and slopes. Mr Nazir Sabir climbed K-2 from the most difficult West ridge in the company of another Japanese expedition in 1981. Mr Rajab Shah and Mr Meherban Shah became the first Pakistani pair to stand on summit of K-2 in 1995. Till date the K-2 has been climbed by about sixty climbers including internationally renowned and eminent mountaineers from the world over. It has been Other 8000 metre peaks of Karakoram have since been climbed by a large number of foreign and Pakistani mountaineers. On the average the Karakorams receive up to 60 expeditions each year. Besides the mountaineering expeditions a large number of trekkers visit the area whose number is increasing each year. At present all peaks beyond 7000 m have been climbed, but there are number of other peaks which still lay unclimbed waiting for those who dare to challenge them.
There are large number of interesting and difficult high altitude treks. Some of the popular treks are Askole - Boltoro glacier - Concordia - K-2 Base Camp ( 23 days round trip from Islamabad), Askole - Biafo-Hispar glacier - Nagar trek ( 23 days round trip from Islamabad), Hushe- Ghondoghoro La- Concordia - K-2 Base Camp ( 25 days round trip from Islamabad), Batura glacier trek ( 15 days round trip from Islamabad), Chapursan Valley trek ( 3 weeks round trip from Islamabad), and Shimshal Valley trek ( 3 weeks round trip from Islamabad).

Western Himalayas

The Western Himalayas is situated between Kashmir valley in the East to Indus River in the North and West and is dominated by Nanga Parbat massif with highest peak rising at 8125 metres. The range comprise the regions of Kashmir, Kaghan, Kohistan, Deosai and Chilas. The range is also dominated by Deosai plains situated at the height of about 4500 m which is filled with flowers in the summer months and present the most rewarding scenic view in the world. The monsoons penetrate the area, however climbing season remains in the summer season. Of late some winter climbing has also commenced.
Nanga Parbat complex has numerous routes but the prominent base camps are Rupal ( Eastern face), Raikot / Fairy Meadows face (North Eastern face), Diamer face (the North Western face) and the long West ridge. It was explored by Europeans in later part of nineteenth century, the Schlagintweet brothers from Germany visited Nanga Parbat region in 1854. A British expedition led by Mr A F Mummery attempted to find a way up the Southern and Western slopes. In 1932 a German cum American expedition attempted to climb Nanga Parbat. Later it was attempted by German expeditions in 1937 and 1939 and therefore is aptly called a German mountain. It was, however in 1953 that an Austro German expedition led by Mr Herlingkoffer was successful in conquering this killer mountain. Mr Hermann Buhl in an unprecedented 40 hour solo climb succeeded in reaching the summit. The peak has since been climbed from all sides by number of climbers including Mr Reinhold Messener who has climbed it on more than one occasions. Sher Khan, Rajab Shah, Jabbar Bhatti and Atta ul Haq became the first Pakistanis to scale Nanga Parbat.
There prominent treks in the area include trek around Nanga Parbat (15 days round trip from Islamabad), trek across Deosai plains (15 days round trip from Islamabad) and trek to Fairy Meadows (6 days round trip from Islamabad).

Hindukush

The Hindukush rises South West of Pamirs. It is considered to extend from Wakhjir pass at the junction of the Pamirs and Karakoram to Khawak pass North of Kabul. Its first region extends from Wakhjir pass separating Hunza from Wakhan and up to Dorah pass (320 kms in length). Its second region lies beyond Dorah pass in Afghanistan. The third region which runs for 240 kms lies in Pakistan and extends into Swat and Kohistan. On the East it is separated from Karakoram by Indus River. Highest of Hindukush is Tirich Mir (7708). Other peaks include Istr-o-nal (7403 m), Saraghar (7349 m), Noshaq (7492 m), Darban zom (7219m) and Shingeik zom. Few glaciers exit in the range but of lesser significance.
The area, which due to geographic reasons had access from Afghanistan was first explored by the Europeans in 1830 followed by British survey teams. Attempts were also made by British survey teams to scale Tirichmir and other peaks in the area as early as 1927. Tirichmir was, however climbed in 1950 by a Norwegian expedition led by Mr Arne Naess. Since then it has been climbed by numerous expeditions from different nationalities including Pakistanis. Other peaks in the area were climbed later in the sixties and seventies. Although all peaks above 7000 m in the Hindukush stand climbed yet the area continues to lure climbers and nature lovers. In recent years other adventure tourism activities like trekking and jeep safaris have increased in the area.
Prominent treks in the area include Kalash - Chambol Pass (15 days round trip from Islamabad), trek across Thui Pass from Chitral to Gilgit (25 days round trip from Islamabad) and Darkut trek from Chitral, Mastuj to Gilgit (3 weeks round trip from Islamabad).

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Land of

Spectacular Mountains

Access to the Area and Facilitation of the Adventure Tourists

Karakoram

Western Himalayas

Hindukush

Major Peaks of Pakistan