Training Pakistani Women in
Climbing & Mountaineering 2007
A Joint Collaboration between
Pakistan & American Alpine Clubs
General

Pakistan is bestowed with the largest collection of the spectacular and lofty mountains in the world. It is here in Northern Areas that three magnificent mountain ranges on Earth; Karakoram, Himalayas and Hindukush make a rendezvous. In their fold these ranges boast off more than 720 peaks rising above 6,000 metres, including more than 160 rising above 7,000 metres, and five towering above 8,000 metres topped by the second highest peak of the world - the savage Chogori or K-2 (8,616m). Northern Areas and Chitral offer vast potential and opportunities for mountain related adventure sports and activities i.e., climbing, mountaineering, skiing, white water rafting etc and is rightfully claimed as paradise for mountaineers, mountain adventure seekers and nature lovers. Yet it is unfortunate that this unparalleled natural endowment has not found compatible interest amongst our own countrymen, specially the youth.

Alpine Club of Pakistan (ACP), the national mountaineering and climbing federation, is engaged in promoting healthy adventure sports of mountaineering and mountain related adventure activities in the country since its establishment in 1974. Besides training a large number of its members, youth (including women) and others related with the mountain tourism, it has launched many successful mountaineering expeditions to the highest mountains including K2 as well as the world’s highest - Mt Everest (8,850m). It has produced several mountaineers of international repute and eminence including Nazir Sabir – the present ACP President and only Pakistan to climb MT Everest and K2, Col Sher Khan (Retd), Rajab Shah and many other famous mountaineers.

In the past ACP’s efforts to train and produce women climbers and mountaineers have not yielded positive results for various reasons. ACP conducted numerous training courses for women in mountaineering and climbing, beginning July 1979 and spread across in mid eighties. In 1996 a large ACP expedition launched to 7,284 m high Pasu Peak in Hunza, Northern Areas, had included three women climbers, but without encouraging results. Though it is well appreciated that we can not compete with European and other Western countries, yet we can compare ourselves in our neighbouring environments. In South Asia many women have made great strides in the field of climbing and mountaineering, and have not only climbed Mt Everest on several occasions, but also have made laudable achievements in this field. Even Turkish and Iranian women have climbed Mt. Everest in recent years. It is unfortunate that women of Pakistan, in spite of our best efforts, lack far behind in this important character building and healthy adventure sports. Pakistan has been receiving many invitations to participate in many women climbing competitions, mountaineering expeditions and activities at International forums but due to lack of skilled and experienced female climbers these opportunities were wasted out.

 
Proposal
To address this situation, especially as we launch Destination Pakistan Year in 2007, and also unleash an era where Pakistani women are endeavouring to find their just place in the men dominated society, Alpine Club of Pakistan has chalked out plans to expose women to the fold of nature’s endowment, the great mountain wilderness, in general, and and mountaineering, in particular. The programme has been developed with the support of American Alpine Club who shall be sending their reputed women instructors (Everest summiteers) and trainers to train interested young girls and women in the art of Rock Climbing and Mountaineering.
 
Objectives

The objectives of the programme are as mentioned hereunder:-

  1. To expose young women to the nature’s endowment, wilderness and the great mountain wealth of the Northern Areas.
  2. To train the selected women in the art of basic rock climbing and mountaineering and build a wider base of women climbers in the country.
  3. To launch the first ever Pakistan’s women mountaineering expedition to 5960 metre high Khushaikh Peak near Khunjerab Pass, Northern Areas.
 
Patronage
The programme shall be conducted by the Alpine Club of Pakistan under the overall supervision of Ministry of Tourism, Government of Pakistan with the cooperation/collaboration of Ministry of Women Development, Higher Education Commission, Defence Services and Northern Areas Administration. First Lady Begum Sehba Musharraf has been requested to become Chief Patron of the programme by Mrs Nilofar Bakhtiar, Minister for Tourism and Programme Patron.
 
Participation

Participation target of 100 women has been laid down drawn from following:-

  1. Young Women students from various universities/professional colleges/educational institutions under the administrative control of Higher Education Commission.
  2. Young Women from the three Defence Services ie, Pakistan Army, Pakistan Navy and Pakistan Air force.
  3. Young working women from other institutions through Ministry of Women Development and Youth Affairs.
  4. Aspirant climbing/mountaineering women from Northern Areas.

Note:- Participant Willingness Proforma is enclosed.

 
Location

The training shall be conducted around Borit and Pasu villages near Pasu glacier (2,440 m) whereas part of the advanced training will be held near Khunjerab Pass (4,733) and the expedition shall be launched at Kushaikh Peak (5,960 m) situated near Khunjerab Pass, Hunza, Northern Areas. Location map of the Northern Area enclosed at Annex P whereas that of the Pasu Training Area is at Annex Q and that of Khunjerab Pass is at Annex R.

 
Outline Timeframe
The training shall be conducted with effect from 16 July under a three Phased programme. Selected women shall be retained for further two Phases commencing from 26 July and 4 August 07 respectively. The programme, with outline as under shall be completed by 12 August:-
1. Promotional Presentations and Programmes by eminent mountaineers in the concerned educational institutions/other participating organisations (where ever required). March/April
2. Selection of participants by the concerned educational institutions/authorities/organisations. First week of May
3. Assembly of participants at Pakistan Sports Complex, Islamabad 14 July (original 16 July)
4. Depart Islamabad for the training area in Pasu, Hunza by road. 17 July
5. Arrival in the training area/camp (2 nights stays at Pattan and Gilgit enroute) 19 July
6. Training – Phase – I Pasu training area (height 2240 m) (approximately 100 participants) including two days trekking on the Pasu glacier 20 – 25 July
7. Training – Phase – II Pasu and Khunjerab Pass (height 4,733 m) (40 selected participants whereas remaining to return back to Islamabad) 26 July – 3 August
8. Training Phase – III - Women Mountaineering Expedition -15 selected participants to participate in the Expedition to Khushaikh Peak (height 5960m) near Khunjerab Pass, Northern Areas, whereas remainder to return back to Islamabad. 4 – 10 August
9. Return back to Islamabad and Reception 12 August
 
Instructors

American Alpine Club (AAC) shall be providing three reputed climbing instructors under the leadership of Ms Charlotte Fox, an eminent mountaineer, Everest summiteers and a climbing instructor. Experienced local male/female instructors shall e augmenting the instructor resources for Phase I and II only. Particulars of the American Alpine Club team is as under:-

  1. Heidi Kloos - Team leader/lead trainer
  2. Janet Bergman - Guide
  3. Sonja Nelson - Guide
  4. Lisa Rust - Guide
  5. Kirsten Kremer - Guide
  6. Molly Loomis - Guide
  7. Cherie Silvera - Cinematographer
  8. Sallie Dean Shatz - Photographer

 
Funding

Funding is being requested/acquired through following:-

  1. Grant from Ministry for Women Development.
  2. Grant from Higher Education Commission.
  3. Sponsorships from the private sector.
 
Camping, Climbing and High Altitude Gear
Camping, climbing and high altitude gear shall be provided by ACP, however personal clothing (as per list at Annex A) shall be brought by the selected participants. Stay during the training period shall be under tentage.
 
Administration
Transportation and other administration of the course from Islamabad to Training Area, during training period and back to Islamabad shall be undertaken by Alpine Club of Pakistan. All the participants will be required to reach ACP offices under their own arrangements. Pakistan Army, Northern Areas Administration and other concerned agencies shall be providing assistance in the local administration during the training period.
 
Security
Northern Areas Administration shall be providing necessary police escort during travelling as well as during the training/expedition. NWFP Government shall be providing security cover to the participants during travelling through the District of Kohistan.
 
Medical
Pakistan Army and Northern Areas Administration shall be providing two female doctors alongwith the required para-medical staff and medicines to provide medical cover to the Programme.
 
Rescue and Evacuation
Rescue and evacuation shall be under ACP arrangements with the support of the Northern Areas Administration. Pakistan Army shall be keeping a helicopter standby for any emergencies.
 
Publicity and Promotion
Wide publicity shall be provided to the Training through electronic and print media. Pakistan Television Corporation shall be providing special coverage to the training programme, including its preparatory phase, making an episode based serial adventure programme as well as a documentary film. AAC Team is being accompanied by a cinematographer and a photographer.

 

Letter to First Lady Mrs. Sehba Musharraf  
Letter to Dr. Attaur Rehman, Chairman HEC  
Participant’s Willingness and Indemnity Proforma  
Important Notice  
Location Map - Training Area Annexure - P
Training Area – Pasu, Hunza, Northern Areas Annexure - Q
Khushaikh Peak near Khunjerab Pass Annexure - R
Instructors Biodata